After Kavieng, another three flights took us to our next destination, Tari, and the Highland provinces of the Huli Wigmen. These truly extraordinary people were among the million clansmen only discovered in the 1930's by the gold prospecting Leahy brothers in the mountainous centre of PNG previously assumed to have been completely uninhabited. It is not surprising therefore that they remain some of the most wild people on the planet.

Many of the folk we met still have painted faces, wear traditional grass skirts, and adorn their heads with bird-of-paradise plumes inserted into ceremonial wigs. The wigs take a couple of years to grow, during which time the man lives outside of normal community life, undergoing initiation into adulthood.

One of our favourites was Tusky (the gentleman on the right), so named (by us!) for the pigs tusks that pierced his nose. Tusky kindly offered to do a similar job on Ralph's nose, but Karen managed to convince him that what might seem like a much-needed renovation and a good idea at the time (it was after sharing the local pipe) probably wouldn't look so cool back home, despite the obvious benefits of forever having a good party trick.

As in most of the country, the Huli women live separate lives, very much second class citizens, left to tend a Papua New Guinean male's most prized possession, the pig. When not carrying out this role, women can often be seen parading in traditional mourning garb (note the T-shirts, the only concession to the invasion of the western world - and a shame!!!). This may seem a little odd until one takes account of the male's second-most prized possession, his machete. We saw first-hand evidence that these get used for hacking away at more than just the undergrowth. Whilst the (no doubt exaggerated) cannibalistic habits of a few misunderstood people appear to have died away, it was clear from our time in PNG that most people still enjoy a good argument.

The Huli also enjoy dressing up, and will frequently paint their faces simply out of pride, often before making a visit to market or - as in this case - in preparation for putting on a traditional Huli Welcome dance. Although put on in our honour, this was definitely not touristy, as anyone who gets a chance to watch the video will quickly realise. Indeed, seeing themselves on film was obviously a novel experience.

Our few days spent trekking through the Huli lands were weird and wonderful.